“Where
the chickens peck at the stars ". This is the slogan of Saint-Véran
"the highest municipality in Europe", hidden right at the end of a little
road.
Once you've parked in the huge car park (compulsory and with a 2 euro
charge), located well below the village, take a deep breath and climb
up to the heart of the village, since motorised traffic is prohibited
in summer, for visitors.
You won't be disappointed because Saint Véran
is definitely worth the effort !
I
t is built up high on a plateau overlooking the valley, and could easily
be classified as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France, thanks
to its wealth of original heritage: wooden drinking troughs and fountains,
sculpted wooden mission crosses, old bread ovens, numerous superb sundials
on the frontages, shingle roofs, grey stone lauze roofs, a beautiful
17th century mountain church, and above all its traditional old houses
built using larch wood - called "fustes" - in perfect condition.
The
oldest of these "fustes" is called "le Soum", built back in 1641, which
has now become a museum open to visitors.
It was still used as a dwelling as recently as 1976 where people and
animals lived together. Today, "le Soum" presents an exhibition on three
levels of old agricultural machinery and implements, furniture and other
wooden objects (usually made from larch wood apart from the furniture
made from Cembro Pine), wooden skis and also wooden scooters and satchels
!
As you visit this marvellous museum, you'll learn that the cows lived
with the inhabitants in a common room, that the fireplace was only used
once or twice a year, that the bread was made in summer and then stored
in the soup in winter to soften it, and that the toilets were outside,
consisting of a chair with a hole in the seat and a bucket underneath
!
Finally, don't leave Saint Véran without taking a little stroll to appreciate
the protected natural environment in the Queyras regional park … and
don't forget to try the local specialities : tourtons (dumplings) from
Champsaur, as crispy as you like, salty (with potatoes or cheese) or
sweet (with jam) !